January 17, 2010
We decided to go exploring; we had a free day, a car and beautiful scenery beckoning to us. Our destination: Khao Sok National Park, described by the Lonely Planet (our trusty guide book) as a “Jurassic Park” and “a jungle that is part of the oldest rainforest in the world, where snakes, monkeys and tigers mingle within the tangle of lazy vines”. Since it was only about a sixty kilometer drive from the resort in Khao Lak where we were staying we thought this was a perfect opportunity.
Less than twenty minutes into our drive we saw a sign for a Tsunami Memorial in Ban Nam Kem. Having recently completed reading “Wave of Destruction”, a book describing four families from Ban Nam Kem and their struggles and losses in the December 2004 tsunami, it was interesting to see the area we had read about. A galley walk inside a twelve foot sculpture representing a wave from the tsunami left us with an eerie feeling. Seeing the photos and memorial plaques of some of the victims brought home the realization of the suffering and losses that occurred, some families losing multiple family members. Many nationalities were represented on the plaques but by far the Thai and German names outnumbered others. Standing inside the sculpture, thinking of all whose lives had been impacted by the tsunami, also brought to mind the thousands in Haiti who are currently suffering through the devastating earthquake of only a few days ago.
Less than twenty minutes into our drive we saw a sign for a Tsunami Memorial in Ban Nam Kem. Having recently completed reading “Wave of Destruction”, a book describing four families from Ban Nam Kem and their struggles and losses in the December 2004 tsunami, it was interesting to see the area we had read about. A galley walk inside a twelve foot sculpture representing a wave from the tsunami left us with an eerie feeling. Seeing the photos and memorial plaques of some of the victims brought home the realization of the suffering and losses that occurred, some families losing multiple family members. Many nationalities were represented on the plaques but by far the Thai and German names outnumbered others. Standing inside the sculpture, thinking of all whose lives had been impacted by the tsunami, also brought to mind the thousands in Haiti who are currently suffering through the devastating earthquake of only a few days ago.
Travelling to Khoa Sak National Park, the scenery was breathtaking in areas. Tall jagged cliffs rose out of the surrounding jungle, appearing at odds with the lush green foliage all around us.
A three kilometer trek to find a waterfall in the park reminded us that this is not the rainy season. The southern part of Thailand has almost as many signs for waterfalls as it does for wats (temples) and I’m sure they are spectacular during and after the rainy season. However, in the middle of the dry season (November to February) the waterfall we found was not much more than a slow moving stream.
Not to be deterred, we decided we would visit Chiaw Lan Lake, about an hours drive east of the Khao Sak National Park headquarters. This lake was created by Ratchaprapha Dam and is said to have limestone outcrops protruding from the lake that reach a height of 960 meters. You can also rent boats from local fishermen to explore the coves, canals and caves, several which were used as hideouts by communist insurgents between 1975 and 1982. Plan B was formed and we set out to find the lake. However Plan B failed to notice that the directions provided for finding the lake were somewhat vague, and while we had seen signs in English for the national park, we had not seen any signs for the lake.
We knew we were in trouble when, after having made several turns, there were absolutely no signs in English. Glen, being the resourceful person that he is, saw a tour bus and decided that it should likely have the same destination as us. Following it seemed like a good idea until the bus turned onto a bumpy, unpaved alley. Deciding that wouldn’t take us to where we wanted to go, we instead meandered streets that were getting narrower, that did not appear to lead to any type of a lake, and where there were absolutely no signs in English. We were pretty sure that if we stopped to ask for directions we would be met with many smiles and nods, for the Thai people are very friendly, accommodating and eager to please. We were also pretty sure there would be absolutely no understanding or assistance, and rightly so, we were the lost foreigners. Fortunately, with Glen’s excellent sense of direction, we were able to find our way to familiar looking territory. While we weren’t able to get to the lake itself and explore its nooks and crannies, we did find Ratchaprapha Dam and were able to look down on the lake.
After a long day of driving, and getting lost only once more, we were happy to make it back to our resort. On our drive back we reflected on how being lost, even just momentarily, had made us feel vulnerable. While we don’t speak the local language, we are “white” and “have money” – two big pluses in a foreign country – and still we were stressed. We thought about others, ethnic minorities, who don’t speak the language, who have no money and sometimes few possessions, and how lost and vulnerable they must feel. Our experience gave us just a very miniscule glimmer of how some people must feel on an ongoing basis. As with so many days in Thailand, while appreciating the beauty around us here, we are very thankful for all that we have.
Khao Lak Orchid Beach Resort where we stayed
After a long day of driving, and getting lost only once more, we were happy to make it back to our resort. On our drive back we reflected on how being lost, even just momentarily, had made us feel vulnerable. While we don’t speak the local language, we are “white” and “have money” – two big pluses in a foreign country – and still we were stressed. We thought about others, ethnic minorities, who don’t speak the language, who have no money and sometimes few possessions, and how lost and vulnerable they must feel. Our experience gave us just a very miniscule glimmer of how some people must feel on an ongoing basis. As with so many days in Thailand, while appreciating the beauty around us here, we are very thankful for all that we have.
Khao Lak Orchid Beach Resort where we stayed
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